Tallinn’s Christmas market

DSCN4066I had been looking forward to Tallinn’s Christmas market for the whole time I was in the city. Finally, I got to experience it’s loveliness on my very last day there. I walked around and bought my very last Christmas gifts of the season. The shops there were wonderful. When I’m a billionaire, I’m definitely going back and buying everything there. The little stalls all exuded Christmas. It was so wonderful!

DSCN4068Later that night, I got to go with a few friends for a farewell trip back to the Christmas market. We enjoyed some glühwein (hot spiced wine) at the market. It was the perfect end to my Tallinn experience. I’m now back home in the US, dreaming up ways to return to Europe again in the future.


Pirita Beach

The days are winding down for me here in Tallinn, so I’m trying to make sure I’ve seen everything. On my list of visits was Pirita Beach. Reinhard had been there 3 times before and thankfully agreed to be my guide. We took the bus down to the beach. Sadly, but expectantly, the weather was awful and we got rained on and were blown around by the wind. It was just cool, though, getting to be on a beach. It was clear that this was probably a pretty popular spot for people to go during warm weather. It’s a little hard to imagine warm weather while being blown around by 15mph wind in 34° temperatures, but I’m sure this place is capable of being nice.

Also in Pirita is the grand Pirita Convent. It dates back to the 1400s and was home to many monks back in the day. However, the Russians bombed the convent. So the area is now a museum rather than a flourishing convent. The exteriors are still interesting, though. The convent is very big so even traveling through the area, I’ve been able to see the impressive facade.

My first Marine Corps Ball

I went to my very first Marine Corps Ball this past Saturday. My invitation was a bit of a surprise, but I was glad to be invited! I had to scramble a bit for a dress, but ended up with a pretty one in blue. Dress shopping was more difficult than I thought. The regular department store that I was so sure would have dresses ended up not having long formal gowns. I was lucky enough to find a series of bridal shops all located closely together. Many of the ladies in the shops had a difficult time with English, but we somehow made it work. I was a little discouraged by the very high prices until I found a shop with some more reasonably priced bridesmaid dresses. Also a problem was sizing. European sizing is very different from American sizing. I ended up figuring it out, though my size was a bit too small for the dresses hanging on the rack. The dress I got was a bit too big, but it had a lace up back so the size was less of an issue.

The actual ball was wonderful. The location is a very special venue that was a meeting place that is often photographed by tourists, so it was a really wonderful treat to be able to go inside this building. There were arched ceilings and wooden beams, chandeliers and stained glass windows all around. I got there for a cocktail hour and was able to mix and mingle with all my coworkers and other fancy guests. There was quite a ceremony for the happy birthday celebration for the Marines. Next was followed with a delicious 3 course dinner and then dancing. It was so nice getting to be around everyone in their prettiest dresses and handsome tuxedos. I hope it won’t be my last ball!

Ukrainian Cultural Center in Laboratoriumi 22

I was invited by Vitali to go to the  Ukrainian Cultural Center today to participate in a sort of a workshop for making handmade paper and learning a little bit more about the culture of Ukraine. Before we made paper of our own, we were taken up to a big room with a large table where children (mostly Ukrainian) were doing different drawings (Vitali said it was a sort of a Sunday school class). Once they were finished, we plopped down on the table and started to write up stories with fancy calligraphy pens. The stories were supposed to be of happy events that we remembered. The event stories were supposed to go into a big book, constructed with handmade paper. I wrote my story about the Marine Corps Ball I went to yesterday (post coming shortly, I promise). Hopefully my story will eventually make its way into the book. We will see!

After we creatively drafted our happy stories, we moved down into the studio where they were making paper. We were making paper out of old blue jean pants, so the paper will be a pretty blue color. The lady teaching us how to make the paper was a little scary, especially because I messed up, but Vitali said that she was actually very reassuring (it’s hard to tell when someone is speaking with you sternly in a different language, particularly in Russian). But everything worked out fine and I even got to add some flower petals to my paper 🙂 It should be finished in about 3 days, after it all dries out.

A little after we made our paper, we were given a tour of parts of the city where the Ukrainians had influence. We got to have some delicious snacks in the Ukrainian center. There was a special Ukrainian stove with potatoes cooking on it. Tasty things. There was an Orthodox church we saw that had a floor that pushed back and revealed 2 secret staircases. It was like a secret passageway. Underneath was a little bit of a museum/archive of Ukrainian and Russian toys and other things. Really cool.

Thoroughly impressed by secret tunnels, we went to one of the towers that surrounds the city of Tallinn. The Ukrainian man who was showing us around the Cultural Center was also in charge of one of the towers. The European Union gave funds for those hoping to assert cultural elements into the surrounding areas. So the Ukrainian man works in the tower and builds incredible wooden toys. The toys all tell stories that the tourists that visit the tower tell. The stories are supposed to represent the cultures of the different continents. So there are elaborate series of wooden puppet toys that tell stories of European, Asian, African, North and South American cultures.

After the nice Ukrainian man left us, my group of guys went to the grocery store to buy supplies to make sushi. Apparently one of Vitali’s Ukrainian friends is a master sushi maker who agreed to make sushi for Vitali and some of his buds. So I invited the guys over to my apartment to make some sushi! It was quite an involved process (only bottled water acceptable for boiling rice…).

Christmas is here already

Christmas starts pretty early here in Tallinn. The grocery store has had its display of Christmas ornaments up for a couple of weeks. Certain stores with Christmas decorations and trees have been popping up. But today, as I walked through the Town Hall square, the biggest display of Christmas spirit was being constructed. The giant Christmas tree was being set into its prominent place in town. Santa and his elves (or tree set up guys wearing orange vests) were walking through the square. I was lucky enough to be able to take a photo with Santa after my work event in the square. I’m so ready for Tallinn’s Christmas market to get set up! Just another week!

Island hopping (part II)

Day 2 of Saaremaa began more peacefully than day 1. We enjoyed a nice breakfast in the hotel, wandered through the streets of old Kuressaare, and went back to the Bishop’s castle. Kuressaare looks much different during the day. The little buildings along the main street were lit up by the sleepy sun, so their pastel hues glowed against the blue and gray background of the sky.

We walked around the castle and the surrounding decorated grounds. There is a series of moats and bastions that go around the castle, making for an interesting sight. The inside of the castle had a bunch of different exhibits. One floor was something about Soviet times; another floor was filled with fabric art pieces of some sort; our favorite floor had a bunch of different wildlife (giant moose included). It was an odd mixture, but somehow all worked. The coolest part was just the architecture of the insides of the castle. There were beautiful arches, pillars, and wooden beams that formed large interior halls.

Windblown and cold, yet again, we hopped in the car and headed for the Kaarma church. It was built some time between the 1200s and the 1400s. Basically, it’s really old. I was a little surprised that the church wasn’t open, especially because we visited on a Sunday during the early afternoon. Regardless, we used the church as a picnic site, eating our lunches purchased from the Kuressaare grocery store.

We left Kaarma for Panga, famous for their beautiful slate cliffs. We walked around a little through what was sort of a park. The cliffs came into view as we walked out to the sea. Had we been in a helicopter, we would have been able to see the cliffs a bit better, but seeing them even from a limited perspective was still impressive.

Absolutely frozen by this point, we got into the car once again and made our way over to the ferry location. Quite some time later (apparently everyone on the islands of Saaremaa and Muhu like to leave their islands all on Sunday evenings), we finally got back to the mainland and to Tallinn. It was a crazy weekend, but we got to see so many beautiful things.

Island hopping (part I)

This past weekend was not only a holiday weekend (Veterans’ Day) but also my birthday weekend, so it was naturally a good excuse to take a trip to the island of Saaremaa with my favorite travel partner, Reinhard. we set out Saturday morning, picked up a rental car, and headed straight for the town of Virtsu where we would catch the ferry for Muhu Island. Once we arrived at the coast, we could already tell it was going to be a rough journey on the water. The area was littered with windmills, indicating that there is a constant supply of wind. Sure enough, the ferry was battered around. Thankfully the trip to the island of Muhu was short. We knew finding a place for lunch on the small island would be just about impossible, so we stopped at a grocery store for a makeshift picnic lunch which we ate in the car along the way to the Koguva village. The village was very charming. There were little huts with grass roofs and moss all around. Many of the huts had little exhibits inside that you could peek into. Of course the museum running them was closed, but we were still free to wander around. Beyond the cluster of huts, the Koguva port was situated. The rustic port was really just some closed buildings and a few forgotten fishing boats. Frozen, we got back into the car, got through the rest of Muhu, seeing a couple windmills and churches along the way.

There’s a a bridge between Muhu and Saaremaa. As we drove past, we saw some guys windsurfing in the water along the bridge. I sure hope they had some warm wetsuits on! I certainly can’t imagine wanting to go into that cold water, but those brave guys seemed to be enjoying it. Our very first stop was at the Karja Catherine Church. It is a beautiful church built in the 14th century. After a quick photo session, we left for the Angla Windmills. The island of Saaremaa is known for its beautiful windmills. There used to be a large amount of them, but now there are only 5 windmills left. The wonderful windmills of Angla are located in an extra windy spot on the island near a “main” road, so they were easily accessible by the workers. Luckily, that also means they were easily accessible for us, too! We were driving along the road and all these beautiful windmills popped into view. We stopped on a little path on the road, got out of the car, were greeted by a friendly dog, and started exploring. We found that there was a museum house and a real parking lot on the other side of the windmills, so we moved on over there. We learned a little about the history of the windmills while warming up over some coffee. We spent some good time wandering around the windmills (4 typically Estonian, 1 Dutch styled). We were even able to climb inside 2 of the windmills – the big one had an exhibition of children’s artwork.

Next on our list was the Kaali meteoroid crater. Scientists think that the meteoroid struck the area around 4,000 years ago. The big one in my video below is actually a part of a series of craters. There are 8 more smaller craters in the area, all from debris that broke off of the main meteor.

Before checking into our hotel, we stopped at the Kõljala manor house. This manor house is very different from the other ones I have seen. The others have been very well maintained and preserved. The Kõljala manor house, on the other hand, has not been so lucky. Though the pink and white paint was clearly peeling, the manor house was still beautiful.

After a long day on the road, we wound up in Kuressaare, where we were to spend the night. The people at my work told me we absolutely had to have dinner at the La Perla restaurant, and I’m so glad we went. Apparently the man who owns the restaurant is an Italian American who used to work at the same place I am right now. But he fell in love with an Estonian woman and decided to stick around and open an Italian restaurant. I had the most delicious pasta carbonara ever and Reini really enjoyed his lasagne. After dinner we walked to the Bishop’s Castle, a key landmark of not only the city, but the whole island. It was a really eerie site at night. Cold and windblown, we called it a night and promised to go back the next day.

Tallinn TV tower and occupation museum

Sorry for the delay, but I will tell you what fun things I did last weekend. Reinhard and I hopped on the bus and ended up at the Tallinn TV tower. It was a cold, rainy and foggy day, but we were determined to have fun. The Tallinn TV tower was constructed during the Soviet times, but the inside museum parts have all been renovated and looked modern. There was even a silly 3D movie to watch. We took the elevator right up to the 21st floor – we were literally in the clouds.  We should have been greeted by the beautiful views of the whole area (and some say you could even see Helsinki) but we couldn’t see much of anything, thanks to the clouds. Luckily there were some fun interactive exhibits for us to play with. Once we got bored and hungry, we went to the cafe on the 22nd floor. During the summertime you can go outside and walk around in the open air/in the clouds, but of course it was winter and cold so we stayed inside. After a delicious meal in the cafe, we made our way back into town.

Our next stop was the occupation museum. Many of my coworkers said it is a place needed to visit and Reinhard said he wanted to go too. They had eerie statues and exhibits depicting the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Estonia. All the information was a little bit much to take in so we decided that a trip to the Pierre chocolaterie was necessary.

I had to introduce Reinhard to the wonderfulness of the hot chocolate there, so we ordered a pair. He, of course, enjoyed his and I loved mine. And we had fun chatting in the charming cafe. It was a lovely ending to a gray, rainy, gross day.